Late-Fall Midge Fishing: Small Flies, Better Drifts and 12 Patterns to Carry

Late-Fall Midge Fishing: Small Flies, Better Drifts and 12 Patterns to Carry

The pool looks quiet until you stop watching the whole thing.

Then you notice a nose beside the foam line. Another rise a few feet upstream. No splash, no chase — just a small ring that disappears before you've found the fish.

There's your reason to open the small-fly box.

As daylight fades and water temps slide below 50°F, trout metabolism slows but it doesn't stop. The big meals of early fall, the hoppers and stoneflies and meaty streamers, give way to the smallest and most consistent insects left in the system: midges.

In our post Streamer Science: How to Fish Slow and Deep, we covered one way to stay productive in cold water: slow the retrieve and put a larger fly near the bottom. This is the other route. Go small — flies in the #20–#24 range, 6X–7X tippet, and drifts you can actually control.

The challenge isn't identifying the insect. It's working out which presentation belongs in front of that fish.

A Few Terms, Up Front

These come up throughout, so here they are in one place.

  • Drag-free drift: the fly traveling at exactly the speed of the current, with no pull from your line. In cold, clear water this is the whole game.
  • Tippet "X" size: the diameter of the fine end of your leader. Higher number, thinner line. 7X is finer than 6X.
  • Larva, pupa, adult: the three midge stages that matter. Larvae crawl on the bottom, pupae rise through the water column, adults sit on the surface, often in clusters.
  • Emerger: an insect caught partway between pupa and adult, hanging in or just under the surface. Easy prey, and trout eat more of them than they do adults.
  • Surface film: the surface itself. A fly riding in the film sits half-sunk rather than up on top of it.
  • Trailing shuck: the split skin an emerging insect is still dragging behind it. A pattern that shows one reads as a bug that can't get away.
  • Anchor fly and dropper: on a two-fly rig, the heavier fly that gets the rig down is the anchor; the smaller one tied behind it is the dropper.
  • Dry-dropper: a buoyant dry fly on top with a small nymph or emerger hung beneath it. The dry doubles as your strike indicator.
  • Tailout: the soft, shallowing water at the bottom end of a pool or run, right before it speeds up again.
  • Seam: the line where fast and slow water meet. Food collects there, so fish do too.

The Transition Window

From mid-November through early January, rivers enter a period of calm clarity. Flows drop, visibility increases, and trout behavior shifts from aggression to economy. They're no longer burning energy chasing streamers. Instead they feed methodically, capitalizing on the most abundant insect left in the river.

Here's why that favors the midge. A trout in 40-degree water has a limited calorie budget, and chasing a streamer costs more than it returns. A midge drifting into its feeding lane costs almost nothing to eat. So the fish doesn't stop feeding, it just stops traveling to feed, and the fly has to come to it.

Midges hatch in short bursts, usually once the sun has been on the water long enough to warm it a couple of degrees. That's why late morning through mid-afternoon is where we'd start, and why there's rarely a reason to be standing in the river at first light in December.

Start, though, not schedule. Weather, local water temperature and dam releases all move that window, and on a tailwater running at a steady temperature it may not look like a window at all. Treat those hours as the ones worth investigating, then let what's actually happening in front of you decide how you fish.

Look for trout stacked in soft seams, deep tailouts, and slower mid-channel runs where they can feed without moving much. Those are places you can drift a tiny midge through the same lane several times until you find the right presentation, which is exactly what this fishing asks of you.

Close-up of a cutthroat trout held at the water's surface with a tiny midge pattern in the corner of its jaw | Jackson Hole Fly Company

📌 Pro Tip: If you're scraping ice off your guides, you're early. Wait until the air warms, then focus your efforts where sunlight and current meet — that's where midges rise and trout follow.

Three Presentations to Have Ready

You don't need to identify every insect to make a useful adjustment. Separate the fishing into three jobs, then spend a minute watching the water before you pick one.

Are fish holding low? Moving up to intercept something? Showing their noses? That one observation picks your starting depth faster than any fly change will.

  • Near the bottom. Drift a small weighted pattern through the holding water, with enough weight to reach the fish without constantly snagging. Most late-fall days start here.
  • Higher in the water. When fish are feeding above the bottom, cut weight or shorten the distance below your indicator. Sparse nymphs and emergers do the work in this zone.
  • At the surface. Cast to a specific rising fish with a small dry or a cluster pattern. Watch the lane and the rhythm of the rises before you put a fly in it.
Diagram of three midge presentations — a trout near the gravel with an indicator rig and weighted nymph, a trout mid-column taking an emerger under a dry-dropper, and a trout rising to a cluster dry in the surface film | Jackson Hole Fly Company

These are presentations to switch between, not stages you have to work through in order. Some sessions never leave the first one. Others hand you twenty minutes of risers in the middle of the afternoon and nothing on either side of it.

Small Flies That Deliver: Top 12 Midge Patterns

When trout start keying on the smallest food sources, success comes down to matching the stage they're feeding on. Midges move through the water column in predictable phases: larva near the bottom, emerging pupa mid-column, adult clustering on the surface.

Those three stages map onto the three jobs above almost exactly, which is the useful thing about organizing a midge box this way. Find the feeding level, then reach for the stage that lives there.

The Twelve at a Glance

  • Four larvae and nymphs for fish holding on the bottom: Zebra Midge, Nickel Bead Zebra Midge, Disco Midge, Lazer Midge.
  • Four pupae and emergers for fish suspended mid-column: WD-40, RS2, Beadhead RS2, Brassy.
  • Four adults and clusters for fish sipping on top: Griffith's Gnat, Berger's Badger Gnat, Renegade, Double Renegade.

You don't need all twelve to start. One from each stage, in two sizes, covers most days — and each fly below says what it does that the others don't.

Nymphs and Larvae

These are your foundation flies: simple, weighted, and designed to reach trout feeding close to the riverbed. Fished on light tippet with a natural drift, they imitate the countless midge larvae crawling along the bottom before they begin their ascent. Early in the day, before the sun has done anything to the water, this is where the fish are.

Red Zebra Midge | Jackson Hole Fly Company Nickel Bead Zebra Midge in black | Jackson Hole Fly Company Red Disco Midge | Jackson Hole Fly Company Green Lazer Midge | Jackson Hole Fly Company
Zebra Midge Nickel Bead Zebra Midge Disco Midge Lazer Midge

Zebra Midge – Black or Red (#18–#22): The sensible first choice, and the one to get a drift working with before you start changing things. A thread body, a wire rib and a bead, with almost no bulk to it. That minimalism is the point: a real midge larva is a thin, segmented worm, and anything heavier-dressed stops reading like one.

  • How to Fish It: Dead drift through soft seams and slower runs. Use the bead, added weight or a heavier companion fly to reach the depth you want.
  • Where It Shines: Tailwaters, spring creeks and slower pools — anywhere the water stays cold and clear.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: Carry both colors, but don't give each one a permanent job. Get one drifting properly first, then switch to the other as a deliberate change. Red tends to do better in silty water, black in clear.

Nickel Bead Zebra Midge – Black (#18–#22): The same proven silhouette with a bright nickel bead at the head, and it does two things the plain Zebra doesn't: the bead sinks a tiny fly faster, and it adds a point of flash that a trout can pick out in low light or slightly off-color water. That combination is why it earns its own slot rather than being a variation you skip.

  • How to Fish It: Deep under a small indicator, or as the point fly in a two-fly rig where it does double duty as the anchor.
  • Where It Shines: Deeper runs and pools where you need depth in a hurry, and overcast days when a plain thread body disappears.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: The bead is what makes this an anchor, but check the weight before you count on it. In fast water a nickel bead on a size 20 hook may not be enough, and you'll want a split shot above it.

Disco Midge – Red or Chartreuse (#18–#22): A bright, attention-grabbing pattern that imitates drifting larvae in stained or low-light conditions. The flash body draws strikes when fish are less active or visibility is limited — it gives a trout something to find in water where a plain thread body simply disappears.

  • How to Fish It: Subsurface on a short dropper behind a heavier fly. Dead drift, through the slower lanes.
  • Where It Shines: Off-color water, overcast days, and the hour before the light gets on the river.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: This is the fly to try when a natural pattern gets looks but no takes. Change the amount of flash before you change the size — it's usually the faster answer.

Lazer Midge – Olive (#20–#24): A subtle but visible imitation built for trout feeding mid-column. The reflective body materials mimic the gas bubbles that form under a midge's skin as it prepares to emerge, which is why it works in that in-between zone where the fish aren't on the bottom and aren't on top either.

  • How to Fish It: Just below the surface during light midge hatches, or through slow seams holding suspended trout. Minimal weight.
  • Where It Shines: Flat, slow water during a thin hatch, and as the dropper on a dry-dropper rig.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: This is the smallest fly in the group at a #24. If you can't thread 7X, tie it on first at the truck and keep the rig intact — re-rigging with cold hands on the water costs you the window.

📌 Pro Tip: Use a Nickel Bead Zebra as your anchor fly with a smaller Lazer or Disco Midge dropper to cover both deep and suspended feeders in one drift. One rig, two feeding levels, and the fish tell you which one they want.

Pupae and Emergers

As midges rise through the water column, they become an easy meal for suspended fish. A pupa on its way up can't dart away, and trout know it. These patterns imitate that vulnerable transition, which makes them the right call for the stretch of the day when fish aren't quite on the surface but are no longer hugging bottom.

Black WD-40 midge emerger | Jackson Hole Fly Company RS2 midge emerger | Jackson Hole Fly Company Beadhead RS2 midge emerger | Jackson Hole Fly Company Red Brassy midge pattern | Jackson Hole Fly Company
WD-40 RS2 Beadhead RS2 Brassy

WD-40 – Black or Olive (#20–#24): A minimalist emerger that excels when trout suspend mid-column during subtle hatches. Its slim body and sparse tail imitate ascending midges in clear, slow-moving water. There is deliberately very little to this fly, because in flat water a trout gets a long look and anything overdressed gets refused.

  • How to Fish It: On a long leader with minimal weight, so it drifts naturally rather than being dragged down. Dead drift through the feeding lane.
  • Where It Shines: Clear, slow water and technical fish — spring creeks and tailwaters especially.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: When a hatch looks thin and nothing is rising hard, fish are often eating emergers a foot down rather than adults on top. This is the fly for that, and it explains a lot of refusals.

RS2 (#20–#24): A proven pattern that captures the exact moment of emergence. The trailing shuck and slender profile mimic a midge struggling through the surface film, and that struggle is the trigger — a bug that's stuck is a bug a trout can eat without hurrying.

  • How to Fish It: As a dropper below a dry, or behind a small indicator during light hatches. Keep it high in the column.
  • Where It Shines: During an actual hatch, over fish that are working steadily but not committing to your dry.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: Hang it twelve to eighteen inches under a Berger's Badger Gnat. The dry gives you something to watch and the RS2 does the catching.

Beadhead RS2 (#20–#24): A weighted version of the classic RS2, built to get down quickly to suspended feeders. Same silhouette, same trailing shuck, but it reaches a zone the unweighted version can't without a lot of help from your rig.

  • How to Fish It: Deeper runs and slow pools where trout are feeding just off the bottom. Drift it naturally through the seam.
  • Where It Shines: Deeper water, and any day you want the emerger profile without building a complicated rig to deliver it.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: Carry both RS2s. Fishing the weighted and unweighted versions on the same rig puts the same silhouette at two depths, which is a cleaner experiment than changing patterns.

Brassy – Red or Green (#18–#22): A cold-season favorite that bridges the larval and pupal stages. The wire body adds flash and durability, and the heavily segmented profile triggers strikes in slightly off-color water. The wire also means it sinks on its own, which is why it so often ends up as the anchor.

  • How to Fish It: As the anchor fly on a double-nymph rig, getting smaller patterns down fast. Dead drift through runs and seams.
  • Where It Shines: Slightly stained water, and deeper lies where you need weight without a bead.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: A wire-bodied fly is nearly indestructible, so this is the one to fish where you expect to tick rocks. Losing a #20 to the bottom twice in a row is how a good window gets away from you.

📌 Pro Tip: Pair a WD-40 or RS2 dropper behind a heavier Brassy or Beadhead RS2 to imitate multiple emergence stages within one drift. You're covering the rise, not guessing at one point in it.

Adults and Clusters

When midges finally break through the surface film, trout sip them with quiet precision. One midge is barely worth rising for, so fish wait for clusters — several adults tangled together on the surface — which is why cluster patterns outfish single-adult imitations in this season. These dries shine during midday hatches when sunlight triggers surface activity.

Griffith's Gnat midge cluster dry fly | Jackson Hole Fly Company Berger's Badger Gnat dry fly | Jackson Hole Fly Company Renegade dry fly | Jackson Hole Fly Company Double Renegade dry fly | Jackson Hole Fly Company
Griffith's Gnat Berger's Badger Gnat Renegade Double Renegade

Griffith's Gnat (#20–#24): The essential midge cluster pattern for calm water and sunny afternoons. Its peacock body and palmered grizzly hackle imitate a group of adult midges tangled on the surface, which is the version of the insect a trout will actually rise for.

  • How to Fish It: On long leaders to risers sipping in slicks and foam lines. Watch the water around the fly rather than hunting for the fly itself.
  • Where It Shines: Flat water, back eddies and foam lines where clusters collect.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: A #22 Griffith's Gnat is nearly invisible at twenty feet. Pair it with a larger, more visible dry and watch that one instead — a rise anywhere near it is worth a set.

Berger's Badger Gnat (#20–#22): A high-floating dry built for broken currents and micro-seams. The dense hackle keeps it riding high, which makes it the better choice of the two gnats when the surface isn't glass and a low-riding pattern would simply vanish.

  • How to Fish It: As the top fly in a dry-dropper rig with a WD-40 or RS2 trailing below, or on its own over fish working a seam.
  • Where It Shines: Riffled and broken water, and any day you need to see your fly.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: Put floatant on the hackle only. A greased body sits too high and stops looking like an insect caught in the film.

Renegade (#18–#20): A timeless attractor that doubles as a midge cluster imitation or a small terrestrial. The peacock body adds subtle flash while the dual hackles keep it buoyant and visible in glare — useful on a low-sun November afternoon when the water is throwing light back at you.

  • How to Fish It: Dead drift to sporadic risers. It doesn't need to match anything exactly, which is the point of an attractor.
  • Where It Shines: When fish are feeding near the surface but not on a steady rhythm, and you're prospecting rather than targeting.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: The two hackles are what let this fly fish half-sunk without drowning. Fished in the film it reads as a drowned cluster, which is often exactly what's drifting by.

Double Renegade (#16–#18): A larger, more buoyant version of the classic Renegade. The fuller hackle keeps it riding high even in choppy current, which makes it the most dependable indicator fly in this lineup.

  • How to Fish It: As a highly visible top fly supporting small droppers like midges or emergers, or on its own in rougher water.
  • Where It Shines: Choppy currents, and any rig where a #22 dropper needs something that will actually hold it up.
  • 📌 Pro Tip: This is the fly that makes a dry-dropper rig work with midges. A #22 emerger needs a buoyant top fly, and a smaller dry will just sink under it.

📌 Pro Tip: When trout are gently sipping but not breaking the surface, grease your leader and let a Renegade or Double Renegade drift half-submerged. It often converts refusals into confident eats, because a cluster riding in the film is what they're actually eating.

Gear and Presentation: The Fine Line Between Success and Spook

Cold, clear water demands a different mindset, one built on subtlety and precision. When trout grow wary and the currents slow, the right gear and presentation can mean the difference between a quiet day and that perfect, drag-free drift. Late fall rewards anglers who fine-tune every detail: rod weight, leader length, even the size of an indicator.

To keep tiny flies drifting naturally through multiple feeding zones, many anglers rely on a multi-nymph rig — a balanced system that presents several small patterns at different depths without sacrificing control. It's one of the most efficient ways to stay in the strike zone longer while still keeping the presentation delicate.

Below: a breakdown of a classic two-fly nymph rig, ideal for midge setups in cold, clear water.

Diagram of a classic two-fly nymph rig for fishing midges in cold, clear water | Jackson Hole Fly Company
  • Rods: The Yellowstone II in a 4WT is ideal for open water and longer drifts, where its fast action gives you line control on light tippet. For smaller streams or tighter cover, a 7-foot 4WT Silvertip loads quickly at short range and puts the fly exactly where you want it — its medium action is the forgiving one when you're making short, precise casts.
  • Tippet: 6X–7X fluorocarbon. Low-visibility and supple enough for a natural drift. Find our leaders and tippet here.
  • Leader: 10 to 12 feet, to keep the thick fly line away from the fish and let micro-flies move naturally.
  • Indicator: Small foam or yarn. Subtle enough to track movement without landing hard enough to spook a trout in two feet of clear water.

Unlike streamer takes, these strikes are soft and nearly invisible, often just a pause or a hesitation in your line. If you're unsure, set the hook. You'll miss more fish waiting than guessing.

📌 Pro Tip: Keep your casts short and deliberate. A perfect 15-foot drift will always outfish a sloppy 40-footer in this season, and a short line is also a line you can actually mend.

Reading Transitional Water

During this late-fall period, trout gravitate toward depth and consistency: places where the current is smooth, food is steady, and effort is minimal. They're conserving energy but still feeding with intention. Presentation and positioning matter far more than distance or speed.

A common late-fall day follows the insects up through the water column. Not every day does, but it's the pattern worth expecting.

  • Before the sun is on the water: probe deep runs, tailouts and soft seams with weighted larvae like the Zebra Midge or the Brassy.
  • As the water warms: midges start to rise, so move to pupae and emergers such as the RS2 or the WD-40.
  • Once clusters form on top: switch to dries like a Griffith's Gnat or a Renegade for subtle topwater takes.

On overcast days, when hatches are sparse, pair a Griffith's Gnat with a Disco Midge dropper to cover both surface and subsurface feeders. Adjust your depth often — even a few inches can turn lookers into eaters, and depth is nearly always the thing to change before the pattern.

Think of this season as fishing in slow motion. Precision beats power, patience beats pace, and careful observation will always outfish aggression. If you want the full treatment on rigging for cold water, our late-season nymphing guide goes deeper on the rigs themselves.

Taking It to the Water

The beauty of late fall fishing lies in the extremes: you can swing big streamers deep or drift tiny midges light, and both work if done deliberately. One approach tests your patience, the other your precision.

If you're packing light, three flies cover the arc of a day: a Zebra Midge for the morning, an RS2 for the rise, and a Double Renegade to carry it. Everything else in this list is a refinement on those three.

As winter approaches, midges remind us that sometimes less truly is more. Every drift, every delicate take, rewards the angler who slows down and pays attention.

Stay light, stay quiet, and fish small.
Because when the days get short and the water turns clear, the tiniest patterns can bring the biggest rewards.

SHOP OUR MIDGE LIFE STAGES COLLECTION >>

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